Why Sellita Movements are Inside So Many Premium Watches
There is controversy inside many high-end watches that you may not have heard about. It has comfortably existed for many years among the brands and watches you might think are solely deserving of an in-house proprietary movement, but, shamelessly have a third-party movement. The irreverence of such a disruption can very much be unsettling to many purists. That's understandable.
This awkward reality happens all the time without much plight because watch manufacturers know something you may not. You see, manufacturing a watch movement is a highly specialized and intricate process, and considered quite difficult due to the need for extreme precision, skill, and specialized tools. It involves consistently creating and assembling tiny, delicate components with extremely tight tolerances. Anything but perfection spells disaster.
One would think that premium upmarket brands and watches would be highly provincial about the movements they put in their products. They are and they're not. You see, only a small number of watchmakers have the resources to dedicate to the manufacture of a perfect movement. It's rare because it's incredibly difficult and expensive to do. If it exists it is probably going to out-price any watch beyond most people's reach. Think Vacheron Constantin, A. Lange & Söhne, Zenith and Omega.
Watch brands know that while some customers almost exclusively demand in-house movements, many if not most do not. To premium and some luxury watch brands, it's a calculated strategic decision with more upside than downside. A win-win. Certainly, a luxury watch priced $10,000 or more is expected to contain an in-house movement and anything less is unacceptable. But for less expensive watches, a third-party movement, especially a Swiss-made one, is a clean strategy for giving both brand and customer essentially what they want: value for dollar.
Fortunately for the industry, there has been a go-to solution in place for quite some time. Swiss movement manufacturers ETA and Sellita have been fastidiously mastering the perfect movement and carrying a sizeable share of the industry on their shoulder in the meanwhile. They have the goods that check most of the boxes for everyone, even discerning buyers. These are the two third-party Swiss movements every budding watch enthusiast and collector should know: ETA's ETA 2824-2 and Sellita's SW200-1.
One cannot tell the story of Sellita's rise to prominence without first telling the story of ETA (or, ETA SA Manufacture Horlogère Suisse). It was founded in Grenchen, Switzerland, technically in 1856, but a succession of early mergers and acquisitions gained traction for company until it was able to become a major, if not monopolistic, third-party movement supplier. According to multiple watch industry sources, about 80% of Swiss watches are powered by ETA movements.
The ETA 2824-2 is regarded as the prime automatic movement in ETA's catalog. Because of
its three-hand display and date complication, it's the most popular
configuration for everyday watches and lauded as the one movement that will endure a lifetime of use. The 4Hz beat rate
establishes a high standard of smoothness, while the 38-hour power
reserve is enough thanks to its automatic winding. There are multiple
grades available and spare parts are plentiful making them affordable to service, too.
Some have said the ETA 2825 shaped the industry from the time it was first introduced in the 1970s. Later advancements, the ETA 2825-1 and ETA 2825-2 would further secure ETA's stronghold. But, in 2002, the 20-year patent term for ETA 2825-2 would expire signaling a changing of the guard. Just outside the castle walls was Swiss manufacturer Sellita, which was founded in 1950 as one of ETA's major outsourced assembly partners for their movements until 2003. After 2003, Sellita developed its own movements, starting with the Sellita SW200, based on ETA movements. For all intensive purposes, it's a clone of its sister the ETA 2825-2.
Twenty-two years later, in 2008, the SW200-1 would become one of the watch world’s favorite movements used in countless brands such as Tudor, Oris, TAG Heuer, Frederique
Constant, Mühle Glashütte, Maurice Lacroix, and Baume & Mercier. And the reason? Well, there are many, all of which are on par with the ETA 2824-2:
Interchangeability. The SW200-1 is a direct replacement for the ETA 2824-2
Performance. It operates at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour (4Hz), ensuring smooth and accurate timekeeping
Affordability. Compared to other Swiss movements and, especially in-house movements, the SW200-1 completes the value proposition most brands require to earn customer favor
Quality. The SW200-1 proven performance and availability enables brands to focus more exclusively attention to other parts of their products
Reliability. Given easy access to replacement parts and service, as well as proven long-term performance, brands are able to assure their watches offer customers lifetime value.
SELLITA SW200-1 SPECIFICATIONS
Diameter: 26.00 mm
Height: 4.6 mm
Accuracy: depending on quality level, see table
Power reserve: 38 hours
Frequency: 28800 A/h
Jewels: 26 jewels
Four grades: Standard, Special, Premium and Chronometre
